Every city has its own rhythm. In Xiamen, that rhythm hides in the wet markets tucked away in its streets and alleys. Compared to the air-conditioning and bright lights of malls and supermarkets, the wet market feels more “real”: it has the calls of vendors, damp floors, aunties who rise early to shop for groceries, and peddlers arriving on their electric scooters.
1.The Sounds of Morning
In Xiamen, the markets usually come alive as early as six in the morning.
- The fishmonger bangs on the cutting board, shouting, “Fresh sea bass, just off the boat!”
- An old woman bundles up freshly picked sweet potato leaves, with prices chalked onto a wooden board.
- Vendors chat while collecting money: “Did it rain again last night? The water at the crossroads was really deep.”
These everyday conversations, spoken in a Minnan accent, make life feel gently filled with the tenderness of small, ordinary moments.
2.Seafood in the Spotlight
Xiamen’s wet markets are different from those in the north—seafood takes up half the scene.
- Fish, shrimp, and crabs wriggle in plastic tubs.
- Yellow croaker, ribbonfish, oysters, and even freshly caught abalone are all on display.
- The most sought-after is oyster meat, essential for making oyster omelets. Vendors scoop it up with their hands to show you: “They’re really plump today—want some?”
At the dining table in Xiamen, “What seafood did you buy today?” is often a more exciting topic than “What vegetables did you buy?”
3.The Story Behind the Slow Rhythm
In fast-paced cities, grocery shopping has long become an “online ordering” affair. But in Xiamen, many people still choose to walk into the wet markets:
- Bargaining: chat with the vendor for a bit and try to snag a small discount.
- Selecting: weigh the tomatoes in your hand, and judge the freshness of the fish with your eyes.
- Experiencing the city along the way: sometimes you bump into neighbors or friends and exchange a few casual words.
This slow pace is actually a way of life—not about efficiency, but about savoring the process.
Practical Tips
If you’re visiting Xiamen, don’t just stick to the popular cafés. Instead, try:
- Find a local wet market, such as Kaihe Market or Douxi Road Market.
- Go around 7 a.m., when it’s busiest and the ingredients are freshest.
- Try buying some simple ingredients, like oyster meat or sweet potato leaves, and cook yourself a breakfast back at your place.
You’ll find that Xiamen’s wet markets represent the daily life of the city even more than the melodies on Gulangyu Island.
Conclusion
Wet markets may not have glamorous appearances, but they carry the most authentic “smoky” charm of everyday life. To me, they are like a mirror, reflecting the lifestyle of Xiamen’s people: unhurried, adaptable, yet full of warmth.
